Kruger National Park is one of the top places in the world to do a safari as it has some of the densest concentrations of large predators in Africa. It is also the site of the famous lion, crocodile, and water buffalo epic that went viral on YouTube. Enhancing the experience, I got to stay in the African bush in a treehouse overlooking the Klaserie River. Monkeys hopped around on the treehouse roof, antelope wandered the grounds, and giraffes even made a celebrity appearance at one point.
The safari cruises and bush-walks themselves were awesome. My favorite was a night drive during which we followed a lion through the bush. Second favorite was a walking safari outing where -- this time on foot -- we again tried tracking a lion (unsuccessful), leopard (unsuccessful) but also some elephants (great success). I enjoyed analyzing the elephant tracks to see which way they going, how recently they were there, their sex, and roughly how old they were.
To be sure, being on foot is far more exciting than viewing animals from a LandCruiser, especially when you're walking paths you saw lions padding along the night before. At one point too we had to walk briskly away from a couple of huge African elephants coming our way.
Throughout the four days I got to see a good variety of animals: lion, rhino, elephant, water buffalo, jackal, wildebeest, monkey, baboon, giraffe, impala, hippopotamus, crocodile, warthog, eagle, kudu, and water buck. Out of the big five, we only missed the elusive leopard.
One night on my way to dinner, I heard loud crackings and movement in the dark bush next to me. Unfortunately, I only had a wimpy flashlight and couldn't make out what it was as it got closer and closer. As a result, I was only a couple feet away when a massive African water buffalo bull stepped into the path. They are generally considered the most dangerous animals in Africa, killing more people than lions or any other big game besides the hippo. African water buffalo are also infamous for being very unpredictable. We looked at each other for a moment before I quietly high-tailed it out of there, having been warned that there were some in the area that have charged people before.
Later too when a man from Holland and I were trying to get to our treehouses at night we had to turn back as there were two large bulls in our way. We ended up sipping beers for an hour and a half waiting for the buffalos to wander toward the river, as they usually do later at night.
I wondered before if a safari would be significantly different enough from a zoo to make it worth doing. In addition to the beauty of the land and the imagination it kindles, I would certainly say it was worth it in terms of pure animal viewing too.
The biggest difference might be the social elements: seeing animals in large herds, interacting amongst themselves while eyeing the many other species at the watering holes, was fascinating. In a zoo you never get to see a bunch of hippos scattering away as a large elephant walks up to the water; you never come to the poignant realization that an older water buffalo has been kicked out of the pack by jealous younger males, and you never see just how zealously every species guards their young when there are no walls separating them from danger.
I definitely wouldn't last too long on my own in Kruger. I suppose I can only say I'm proud I'm descended from people who could, and that deep down I have at least a little Wild in my blood.
Tracking a lioness at night.
Elephants on the plains.
African long-neck horse.
Zebras.
Though many attempts have been made to domesticate the zebra, including well-organized modern efforts, none have been successful. Turns out they get super mean when they're older.
In Guns, Germs and Steel, Jared Diamond talks about the factors that have disqualified seemingly good large mammals from domestication. Good domesticates: can't be predators (takes too much biomass to raise them efficiently); must grow quickly; must be able to breed in captivity; can't be too mean; can't have a tendency to panic; and must have inbuilt social hierarchies.
For example, although the Egyptians found tamed cheetahs to be masterful hunters far superior to dogs, they have never been domesticated. The problem: they can't breed in captivity. In order for the female to be aroused enough to ovulate and do it, she has to be chased for four days by a group of male cheetahs. Apparently, this hasn't worked out well in zoos.
As for zebras, they "have the unpleasant habit of biting a person and not letting go." They're finicky. Professional cowboys can't even lasso them thanks to the zebra's uncanny habit of eyeing the rope noose flying toward them and then ducking their heads at the last second.
In general, despite its abundance of large mammals, Africa got the short stick when it came to animals good for domestication. Indeed, examining mammals over 100lbs by continent:
- Eurasia: 72 candidates, 13 domesticated (18%)
- Sub-Saharan Africa: 51 candidates, 0 domesticated (0%)
- The Americas: 24 candidates, 1 domesticated (4%)
- Australia: 1 candidate, 0 domesticated (0%)
Even with all our current scientific knowledge, we have been unable to crack the African mammals.
Rhino's (now endangered because of poachers) have four tons of meat on them. In terms of domestication, they have too fierce a disposition, and grow too slowly.
Elephants take 15 years to grow up, making them totally not worth the effort for domestication.
However, their babies are pretty cute, and could compensate for the time lost.
Antelopes are everywhere in Kruger and seemingly good candidates. Their major flaws include a tendency to panic (not good for herding given their extraordinary speed and jumping ability)... and seasonally territorial males.
The sun setting on Kruger.
This tree is over a thousand years old. Apparently the bushmen used to carve out rooms inside them. They were certainly big enough for doing so.
And to think I thought the parties in Rio were wild.
With the guides.
Tracking elephants.
Can you see one in the bush?
Checking in on the hippos.
Two too many late-night water buffalo encounters.
Ever contemplative, the monkey.
Former giraffe.
Treehouse in the bush.
Sunrise near our camp.
At the Blyde River Canyon.
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